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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.